Endnotes – Fashion & Sustainability

Endnotes

Preface

[1] Riegels Melchoir, M., ‘“Doing” Danish Fashion’, Fashion Practice, 2 (1) (2010), p.20.

[2] Orr, D.W. (2009), Lecture at the Brower Center, Berkeley, Calif., 24 August 2009.

[3] Spratt, S., A. Simms, E. Neitzert and J. Ryan-Collins, The Great Transition, London: New Economics Foundation (2009).

Part 1

[1] Schwartz, B., ‘Wise Up’, Sublime, No. 16 (2009), p.47.

[2] GMO Compass, Rising trend: Genetically modified crops worldwide on 125 million hectares (2009), http://www.gmo-compass.org/eng/agri_biotechnology/gmo_planting/
257.global_gm_planting_2008.html
(accessed 15 April 2009).

[3] Fletcher, K., Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys, London: Earthscan (2008), p.32.

[4] DuPont, Sorona (2009), http://www2.dupont.com/Sorona/en_US/index.html (accessed 14 October 2009).

[5] Wilson, A., ‘A question of sport’, Ecotextile News, No. 22 (2009), pp.28–30.

[6] White, P., M. Hyhurst, J. Taylor and A. Slater, ‘Lyocell fibres’ in R.S. Blackburn (ed.), Biodegradable and Sustainable Fibres, Cambridge, UK: Woodhead Publishing (2005), p.171.

[7] ‘GM trees could boost Tencel’, Ecotextile News, No. 35 (2010), p.1.

[8] Blackburn, R.S., Introduction, in R.S. Blackburn (ed.) (2005), op. cit., p.xvi.

[9] Fedorak, P.M., ‘Microbial processes in the degradation of fibres’, in R.S. Blackburn (ed.) (2005), op. cit., p.1.

[10] Fletcher, K. (2008), op. cit., p.100.

[11] McDonough, W. and M. Braungart, Cradle to Cradle, New York: North Point Press (2002).

[12] ‘Teijin to roll out “Biofront” in 2009’, Ecotextile News (2009), No. 21, p.7.

[13] ‘DuPont joins race to offer biopolymers’, ENDS (Environmental Data Services) report no. 346 (2003), p.32–3.

[14] ‘Biodegradable clothing from Japan’, Ecotextile News, No. 9, 2007, p.28.

[15] http://www.trigema.de/ (accessed 8 June 2010).

[16] PAN UK, ‘Living with poison – pesticides in West African cotton growing’, Pesticides News, No. 74 (December 2006), p.17–19.

[17] Environmental Justice Foundation, Child Labour and Cotton in Uzbekistan (undated), http://www.ejfoundation.org/page145.html (accessed 6 May 2009).

[18] Fairtrade Foundation, The Fairtrade Mark (2008), http://www.fairtrade.org.uk/what_is_fairtrade/fairtrade_certification_and_the_
fairtrade_mark/the_fairtrade_mark.aspx
(accessed 22 April 2009).

[19] PAN UK, My Sustainable T-Shirt, London: PAN UK (2007), p.20.

[20] Environmental Justice Foundation and PAN UK, The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton, London: Environmental Justice Foundation and PAN UK (2007).

[21] GMO Compass, Rising trend: Genetically modified crops worldwide on 125 million hectares (2009), http://www.gmo-compass.org/eng/agri_biotechnology/gmo_planting/
257.global_gm_planting_2008.html
(accessed 15 April 2009).

[22] US Department of Agriculture, Adoption of Genetically Engineered Crops in the U.S. (2009), http://www.ers.usda.gov/Data/BiotechCrops/ (accessed 3 September 2009).

[23] International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), Report of the second expert panel on biotechnology of cotton, Washington, DC: International Cotton Advisory Committee (2004), p.5.

[24] Ibid.

[25] ‘GM cotton under scrutiny’, Ecotextile News, No, 35 (2010), p.4.

[26] International Forum for Cotton Promotion, Prospects for Cotton Promotion, The Journal of the International Forum for Cotton Promotion, Vol. 24 (2010), available at: http://www.cottonpromotion.org/features/prospects_for_cotton_promotion/ (accessed 7 June 2010).

[27] The Organic Exchange, e-mail correspondence, 24 March 2010.

[28] Grose, L., ‘Sustainable Cotton Production’, in R. Blackburn, Sustainable Textiles: life cycle and environmental impact, Cambridge, UK: Woodhead Publishing (2009), p.33–62.

[29] Fitt, G. and L.J. Wilson (2002), as cited in ICAC (2004), op.cit., p.31.

[30] ICAC, ‘Concerns, apprehensions and risks of biotech cotton’, ICAC Recorder, March, XXIII (1).

[31] http://peakoil.com/ (accessed 17 April 2009).

[32] Patagonia (undated), Patagonia’s Common Threads Garment Recycling Program: A Detailed Analysis, p.7; and ‘Toray offers recycled nylon’, Ecotextile News, No. 4 (2007), p.23.

[33] Laursen, S.E. and J. Hansen, Environmental Assessment of Textiles, Project No. 369, Copenhagen: Danish Environmental Protection Agency (1997), pp.31–101.

[34] Food and Environment Research Agency, Centre for Technical Textiles, University of Leeds and Textile Engineering and Materials Research Group, De Montfort University, The role and business case for existing and emerging fibres in sustainable clothing, Draft Final Report, London: DEFRA (2009).

[35] Carbon Trust, Working with Continental Clothing: Product Carbon Footprinting in Practise, Case study CTS056 (2008), http://www.carbon-label.com/casestudies/ContinentalClothing.pdf (accessed 22 September 2009).

[36] http://www.cottonroots.co.uk/ (accessed 22 September 2009).

[37] http://www.birdtextile.com/ (accessed 22 September 2009).

[38] Kiernan, I., Public Information – Ian Kiernan, UNEP (1998), http://www.unep.org/sasakawa/index.asp?ct=pubinfo&info=kiernan (accessed 23 April 2009).

[39] UNESCO, World Water Development Report 3, Water in a Changing World (2009), http://webworld.unesco.org/water/wwap/wwdr/wwdr3/index.shtml (accessed 23 April 2009), and World Economic Forum Water Initiative, Managing Our Future Water Needs for Agriculture, Industry, Human Health and the Environment (2009), http://www.weforum.org/en/initiatives/water/index.htm (accessed 23 April 2009).

[40] Grose, L., ‘Sustainable cotton production’, in R. Blackburn (2009), op. cit., p.39.

[41] Kininmonth, M., ‘Planting Ideas’, Ecotextile News, No. 7 (2007), pp.28–9.

[42] Food and Environment Research Agency, Centre for Technical Textiles (2009), op. cit.

[43] Patagonia.com, Footprint Chronicles (2009), http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/footprint/index.jsp?slc=en_US&sct=US (accessed 22 September 2009).

[44] Callenbach, E., Ecology, A Pocket Guide (10th edn), Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press (2008), p.156.

[45] Imhoff, D., Farming With the Wild, Healdsburg, Calif: Watershed Media and Sierra Club Books (2003).

[46] http://www.patagonia.com/ (accessed 9 June 2010).

[47] Imhoff, D. (2003), op. cit.

[48] Ibid.

[49] Ibid., p.143.

[50] Macy, J. and M. Young Brown, Coming Back to Life, Gabriola Island, Canada: New Society Publishers (1998).

[51] Moore, G. and K. Walsh-Lawlor, Gap Inc, in conversation, 2007.

[52] Waeber, P., founder and CEO Bluesign, exchange via e-mail, 20 May 2010.

[53] ‘Waterless Denim Bleaching’, Ecotextile News, No. 24 (2009), p.22.

[54] ‘Defying Logic to Save Precious Resources’, Ecotextile News, No. 24 (2009), p.20.

[55] http://www.bluesign.com/ (accessed 9 June 2010).

[56] http://www.thecleanestline.com/2010/01/competitors-working-together-toward-a-common-good.html (accessed 19 May 2010).

[57] Weaber, P., Bluesign presentation, The Design of Prosperity workshop, Boras Textile University (3 September 2009).

[58] Clay, J. World Agriculture and the Environment, Washington, DC: Island Press (2004), p.288.

[59] Clay, J. (2004), op. cit., p.295.

[60] Grose, L. and E. Williams, ‘Environmental Impact Assessment of Dye Methods on Cotton, Wool, Polyester and Nylon’, internal research document for Patagonia, author’s archives, Muir Beach (1996), p.22.

[61] Milmo, S., ‘Developments in textile colorants’, Textile Outlook International (Jan–Feb 2007), pp.26–8.

[62] Johnson, P., ‘Huntsman Textile Effects’, ‘Basics of Dyeing’ presentation, Organic Exchange Conference, Seattle, Wash. (21 October 2009).

[63] Salter, K., Environmental Impact of Textiles, Cambridge, UK: Woodhead Publishing (2000), p.201

[64] ‘From Zero to Hero’, Ecotextile News, No. 24 (May 2009), p.18.

[65] http://www.tuscarorayarns.com/ (accessed 9 June 2010).

[66] Subramanian Senthil Kannan, M., S. Gobalakrishnan, R. Kumaravel and K.J. Nithyanadan, ‘Influence of cationization of cotton on reactive dyeing’, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 5 (2) (2006), pp.1–16. Available from http://www.p2pays.org/ref/21/20821.pdf (accessed 24 June 2010).

[67] Rissanen, T., ‘Creating fashion without the creation of fabric waste’ in Sustainable Fashion, Why Now, J. Hethorne and C. Ulacewitz C (eds), New York: Fairchild Publishing (2008), pp.184–206.

[68] Hawken, P., A. Lovins and L. Hunter Lovins, Natural Capitalism, as cited in J. Thakara, In the Bubble, Cambridge, Mass.: MIT Press (2006), p.12.

[69] Rissanen, T. (2008), ‘Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste’ in J. Hethorn and C. Ulaswewixz (eds.), Sustainable Fashion, Why Now? Fairchild Books.

[70] http://www.materialbyproduct.com/ (accessed 9 June 2010).

[71] Oxfam International, Rigged Rules and Double Standards: trade, globalization, and the fight against poverty, New York: Oxfam International and Make Trade Fair (2002), p.7.

[72] Quigley, M. and O. Charlotte, Fair Trade Garment Standards: Feasibility Study, San Francisco: Trans Fair USA (2006), p.16.

[73] Rivoli, P., Travels of a T-shirt in the Global Economy, Hoboken, N.J.: John Wiley and Sons (2005), p.106.

[74] Allwood, J.M., S.E. Laursen, C. Malvido de Roderiguez and N.M.P. Bocken, Well Dressed? Cambridge, UK: University of Cambridge, Institute of Manufacturing (2006), p.62.

[75] Oxfam International (2002), op.cit., p.12.

[76] Quigley, M. and O. Charlotte (2006), op. cit., p.21.

[77] H&M Hennes and Mauritz AB, 2008 Sustainability Report (2009) at http://www.hm.com/us/__csrreporting2.nhtml (accessed 29 September 2009), p.61.

[78] Walsh Lawlor, K., Vice President, Strategic Planning and Environmental Affairs, Gap Inc, in conversation, 2009.

[79] Del Forte, T., TransFair USA Senior Manager, Apparel and Home Goods, in conversation, 2009.

[80] Allwood, J.M. et al (2006), op. cit., p.14.

[81] Oxfam International (2002), op. cit., p7.

[82] Esprit International, Esprit collection, Fall 1992 update sheet, Employee Reference Manual, Esprit International (1992), author’s archives, Muir Beach. [As before].

[83] Loughman, E., Environmental Analysis, Patagonia, Horizon Issue: Climate Change, panel at Organic Exchange, Pacific Grove, 1 January 2007.

[84] Loker, S. (2009), op. cit., p.114.

[85] Graedel and Allenby (1995), as cited in H.B.C. Tibbs (2000), The Technology Strategy of the Sustainable Corporation, in D. Dunphy et al (eds), Sustainability: the corporate challenge of the 21st century, St. Leonards, NSW: Allen and Unwin (2000), p.196.

[86] Brown, M.S, founder, Brown and Williams Environmental Consulting, Santa Barbara, Calif., in conversation, 29 September 2009.

[87] Mau, B. and J. Leonard, Massive Change, London: Phaidon Press (2007), introduction, unpaginated.

[88] Loughman, E. (2007), op. cit.

[89] H&M Hennes and Mauritz AB (2009), op. cit.

[90] Donbur.co.uk, M&S Cuts Carbon with Teardrop Trailers, at http://www.donbur.co.uk/gb/news/mands_teardrop_trailer.shtml (accessed 10 February 2009).

[91] Ibid.

[92] Brown, L. Plan B 4.0: mobilizing to save civilization, New York: W.W. Norton (2009), p.131.

[93] http://www.unep.fr/scp/communications/ad/details.asp?id=6684432&cat=4 (accessed 9 June 2010).

[94] Beton, A., A. Schultze, J. Bain, M. Dowling, R. Holdway and J. Owens, Reducing the environmental impacts of clothes cleaning, London: DEFRA research project EV0419 (2009).

[95] Patterson, P., ‘Nature’s natural answer’, Ecotextile News, No. 30 (2010), pp.20–21.

[96] Beton, A. et al (2009), op. cit.

[97] http://myoocreate.com/challenges/care-to-air-design-challenge (accessed on 10 June 2010).

[98] Data: Levi Strauss and Co. Facilities Environmental Impact Assessment (FEIA) and 2007 Cycle Assessment of Levi’s 501 Jean, in Kobori M., (2010) Traceability, Cotton, and Collaboration: Levi Strauss and Co.’s Drive for More Sustainable Agriculture, presentation at Stanford GSB: Socially and Environmentally Responsible Supply Chain Conference, 29 April 2010.

[99] Jorgenson, H., ‘Spotless laundry leaves less blemish on the environment’, Corrections Forum, 17 (2) (2008), pp.39–41.

[100] http://www.laundrylist.org/ (accessed 21 October 2009).

[101] Allwood, J.M. et al (2006), op. cit., p.16.

[102] ‘Council agrees on WEEE’, ENDS report, no. 317 (2001), p.37.

[103] Marks and Spencer, ‘M&S and Oxfam Clothes Exchange becomes UK’s biggest homewares recycling campaign’ (2009), http://corporate.marksandspencer.com/investors/press_releases/
planA/Oxfam_Clothes_Exchange
(accessed 18 March 2010).

[104] Laursen, S.E., J.M. Allwood, M.P. De Brito and C. Malvido De Rodriguez, Sustainable recovery of products and materials – scenario analysis of the UK clothing and textile sector, Design and Manufacture for Sustainable Development, 4th International Conference, Newcastle, UK (12–13 July 2005).

[105] Allwood, J.M. et al (2006), op. cit., pp.18–19.

[106] Alvarez, D., CEO Goodwill Industries, San Francisco, San Mateo and Marin counties, Calif., in conversation, 2009.

[107] ‘The carbon challenge for textile fibres’, Ecotextile News, No. 16 (2008), p.31.

[108] Patagonia (undated), Patagonia’s Common Threads Garment Recycling Program: A Detailed Analysis, p.7; and ‘Toray offers recycled nylon’, Ecotextile News, No. 4 (2007), p.23.

Part 2

[1] Daly, H., Steady-State Economics, 2nd edn, London: Earthscan (1992), p.20.

[2] Rawles, K., ‘Changing Direction’, Resurgence (2009), 257, p.38.

[3] Ehrenfeld, J.R., Sustainability by Design, New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press (2008), p.9.

[4] Guralnik, D.B., Webster’s New World Dictionary of the American Language, 2nd edn, New York: William Collins (1980).

[5] Callenbach, E., Ecology, A Pocket Guide, 10th edn, Berkeley, Calif.: University of California Press (2008).

[6] Chapman, J., Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, experiences and empathy, London: Earthscan (2005).

[7] Norman, D.A., Design of Everyday Things, New York: Doubleday/Currency (1988).

[8] Dunne, A. and F. Raby, Design Noir: The secret life of electronic objects, Basel: Birkhäuser, and London: August (2001), p.45, in J. Chapman (2005), op. cit., p.71.

[9] Chapman, J., (2005), op. cit., p.71.

[10] Ibid., p. 51

[11] Influenced by Callenbach, E., F. Capra and S. Marburg, Global File Report No. 5: Eco-Auditing and Ecologically Conscious Management, Simplified Metabolic Chart of a Prototypical Company, Elmwood Institute, Berkeley, Calif. (undated), p.45.

[12] Franklin Associates, Resource and Environmental Profile Analysis of a Manufactured Apparel Product: Woman’s knit polyester blouse, Washington, DC: American Fiber Manufacturers Association (1993).

[13] DEFRA, Sustainable Clothing Action Plan, London: HMSO (2008).

[14] ‘Perfluorinated pollutants linked to smaller babies’, ENDS (Environmental Data Services) report no. 392 (2007), pp.26–7.

[15] ‘Green groups publish chemical blacklist’, ENDS report no. 405 (2008), pp.24–5.

[16] Fletcher, K., Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys, London: Earthscan (2008), p.86.

[17] Fletcher, K., The Local Wisdom Project (2009), http://www.localwisdom.info/ (accessed 10 September 2009).

[18] Leventon, M., Fashion Historian, California College of the Arts, Fashion Program, San Francisco (in conversation 2 April 2010).

[19] TED, The T-shirt Interactive, London: Chelsea College of Art and Design (1997).

[20] www.bagborroworsteal.com, March 2010.

[21] Allwood, J.M., S.E. Laursen, C. Malvido de Roderiguez, and N.M.P. Bocken, Well Dressed? Cambridge, UK: University of Cambridge, Institute of Manufacturing (2006), p.34.

[22] Freese, B. (2007) in L. Grose (2009) Sustainable Textiles: Life cycle and environmental impact, London: Woodhouse Publishing, p.37.

[23] http://www.jennywelwert.com/iWeb/jennywelwert/Maca%20bag%20project%20summary.html

[24] Anonymous artisan, in conversation, working on location with Aid to Artisans, Tiblisi (1997).

[25] Morris, W., (1996), op. cit., p.xxxii.

[26] Morris, W., (1996), op. cit., p.132.

[27] Imhoff, D., ‘Artisans in the global bazaar’, Whole Earth Review, no. 94 (Autumn 1998), pp.76–81.

[28] Sharambeyan, A., Leader of Armenian Crafts Enterprise Council, now Sharan Crafts Center, in conversation, working on location with Aid to Artisans, Yerevan (1997).

[29] Morris, W., (1996), op. cit.

[30] Benyus, J., Biomimicry: Innovation inspired by nature, New York: William Morrow (1997), p.240.

[31] http://www.biomimicryinstitute.org/ (accessed 2 March 2009).

[32] Jackson, W., in J. Benyus (1997), op. cit., p.9.

[33] Brand, S., Whole Earth Discipline: An ecopragmatist manifesto, New York: Penguin (2009), p.224.

[34] Meadows, D., Thinking in Systems, Earthscan: London (2010), p80.

[35] Hawken, P., A. Lovins and L. Hunter Lovins, Natural Capitalism: Creating the next industrial revolution, Boston: Little Brown (1999), p.88.

[36] Asknature.org, http://www.asknature.org/strategy/1ebbd861249e5657c8c21b4fabe0d0f4 (accessed 4 May 2010).

[37] Hawken, P. et al (1999), op. cit., p.14, p.81.

[38] Benyus, J. (1997), op. cit., p.250.

[39] Meadows, D.H., Thinking in Systems: A Primer, White River Junction: Chelsea Green Publishing (2009).

[40] Chaudhary, S., Managing Director, Pratibha Syntex, personal communication by e-mail, 19 May 2010.

[41] Ibid p.87.

[42] Korten, D.C., Agenda for a New Economy: From phantom wealth to real wealth, San Francisco: Barrett-Koehler (2009), p.14.

[43] Ibid., p.33.

[44] Ibid., p.183.

[45] Goodwill Industries, San Francisco, San Mateo and Marin counties (undated), At a Glance Fact Sheet, San Francisco: Goodwill Industries.

[46] Berry, W., What Are People For? Berkeley, Calif.: North Point Press (1990).

[47] Daly, H. (1992), op. cit.

[48] Fashioning an Ethical Industry, The fashion industry and poverty reduction, Factsheet 3a (undated), www.fashioninganethicalindustry.org, p.3.

[49] Shah, D., ‘View’, Textile View Magazine, vol. 82 (2008).

[50] Carter, K., ‘Why fast fashion is so last season’, Guardian Online, 23 July 2008 http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2008/jul/23/ethicalfashion.fashion (accessed 31 March 2010).

[51] Clark, H., ‘Slow + Fashion’, Fashion Theory, 12 (4) (2008), pp.427–46.

[52] Von Busch, O., FASHION-able: Hactivism and engaged fashion design, PhD thesis, Gothenburg, Sweden: Art Monitor (2008), p.56.

[53] Anderson, C., The Long Tail, New York: Hyperion Books (2006).

[54] Fletcher, K. (2008), op. cit., p.123.

[55] Fletcher, K. and L. Grose, ‘Fashion That Helps Us Flourish’, Turin, Italy: Changing the Change conference proceedings (10–12 July 2008).

[56] Fuad-Luke, A., Design Activism: Beautiful strangeness for a sustainable world, London: Earthscan (2010).

[57] Banerjee, B., ‘Designer as Agent of Change, A Vision for Catalyzing Rapid Change’, Turin, Italy: Changing the Change conference proceedings (10–12 July 2008), p.4.

[58] Wendell, B. (1990), op. cit., p7.

[59] New American Dream, New American Dream Survey Report (Sept 2004), p.3, http://www.newdream.org/ (accessed 25 March 2009).

[60] Imhoff, D., Food Fight: The citizen’s guide to a food and farm bill, Healdsburg, Calif.: Watershed Media (2007).

[61] Cohen, R., ‘Schools of Lost Children’, Pacific Sun, 19–25 March 2010, pp.13–16, review of the movie Race to Nowhere by Vicki Abeles.

[62] Daly, H. (1992), op. cit., p.xii.

[63] Shah, D.R., publisher and editor, Textile View Magazine, e-mail correspondence, 21 May 2010.

[64] Martin, A., http://www.littlebrowndress.com/brown%20dress%20archive%20home.htm (accessed 5 October 010).

[65] World Wildlife Fund for Nature, Natural Change: psychology and sustainability (2010), available at www.naturalchange.org.uk.

[66] Marchand, A. and S. Walker, ‘Beyond Abundance, Motivations and perceived benefits underlying choices for more sustainable lifestyles’, Turin, Italy: Changing the Change conference proceedings (10–12 July 2008).

[67] Badke, C. and S. Walker, ‘Being Here: Attitude, place, and design for sustainability’, Turin, Italy: Changing the Change conference proceedings (10–12 July 2008).

[68] Chapman, J. (2006), op. cit.

[69] Hyde, L., The Gift, New York: Vintage Books (1979).

[70] Callenbach, E. (2008), op. cit., p.83.

[71] Farrell, R., ‘Fashion and Presence’, Nomenus Quarterly 3, (2008), unpaginated.

[72] Von Busch, O. (2008), op. cit., p.181.

[73] Ibid., p.109.

[74] Ibid.

[75] Shove, E., Watson, M., Hand, M. and Ingram, J. (2007), The Design of Everyday Life, Oxford: Berg, p.133.

[76] Fuad-Luke, A. (2009), op. cit., p.99.

[77] Ibid.

[78] http://www.antiformindustries.com/ (accessed 7 June 2010).

[79] http://www.dianesteverlynck.be/ (accessed 7 June 2010).

[80] Sennett, R., The Craftsman, London: Penguin Books (2008), p.9.

[81] Ibid., p.21.

[82] Ibid., p.20.

[83] http://www.cca.edu/academics/finar/curriculum/fall/604/16.

[84] http://www.we-make-money-not-art.com/archives/2010/01/the-craftwerk-20-exhibition-th.php.

[85] Von Busch, O. (2008), op.cit., p.62.

[86] Ibid.

[87] Ibid., p.59

[88] Levy, S. (1994) as cited by von Busch, O. (2008), op. cit., p.62.

[89] Galloway, A. (2004) in von Busch, O. (2008), op. cit., p.63.

[90] Von Busch, O. (2008), op. cit., p.238

Part 3

[1] Banerjee, B., ‘Designer as Agent of Change, a Vision for Catalyzing Rapid Change’, Turin, Italy: Changing the Change conference proceedings (10–12 July 2008), p.3.

[2] Fuller, R.B., as cited in V. Papanek, Design for the Real World, London: Thames and Hudson (1984), p.326.

[3] Esty, D., ‘Is going green more than a fad?’ Interview on National Public Radio, Marketplace from America, 18 May 2010. Transcript available at http://marketplace.publicradio.org/display/web/2010/05/18.

[4] Papanek, V. (1984), Design For the Real World, London: Thames and Hudson, p.228.

[5] Banerjee, B. (2008), op. cit., p3.

[6] Orr, D.W., The Nature of Design: ecology, culture and human intention, New York: Oxford University Press (2002), p.31.

[7] Ibid., p.3.

[8] http://www.bath.ac.uk/carpp/publications/coop_inquiry.html (accessed 27 June 2010).

[9] Brown, T., Change by Design: How design thinking transforms organizations and inspires innovation, New York: Harper Business (2009), p.5.

[10] Von Busch, O., Re-forming Appearance: Subversive strategies in the fashion system – reflections on complementary modes of production (2005), available from http://www.selfpassage.org, p.10.

[11] http://www.kulturservern.se/wronsov/selfpassage/disCook/disCook.htm (accessed 11 May 2010).

[12] Papanek, V. (1984), op. cit., p.55.

[13] Brown, T. (2009), op. cit., p.216.

[14] Banerjee, B. (2008), op. cit., p.2.

[15] Influenced by Jensen, D. (2009), ‘Forget Shorter Showers’, in Orion (July/August 2009), pp.18–19.

[16] Adams, B., Design Green Now panel, California College of the Arts, San Francisco (27 March 2009), also accessible at: http://www.designgreennow.com/2009/03/27/bob-adams-sustainability-lead-ideo/.

[17] Organic Exchange, ‘Global Organic Cotton Market Hits $3.2 Billion in 2008, Organic Exchange Report Shows’ (2009), www.organicexchange.org (accessed 4 February 2009).

[18] Macy, J. and M. Young Brown, Coming Back to Life, Gabriola Island, Canada: New Society Publishers (1998).

[19] Jackson, T., Prosperity Without Growth, London: Sustainable Development Commission (2009), p.34.

[20] Chapman, J., Emotionally Durable Design: Objects, experiences and empathy, London: Earthscan (2005), p.10.

[21] Hopkins, R., The Transition Handbook, Totnes, UK: Green Books (2008), p.213.

[22] Korten, D.C., Agenda for a New Economy: From phantom wealth to real wealth, San Francisco: Berrett Koehler (2009).

[23] Banerjee, B. (2008), op. cit., p.10.

[24] Brown, T. (2009), op. cit., p.17.