Fastenings/Hardware – Flats: Technical Drawing for Fashion

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

FOUR-HOLE BUTTON

TWO-HOLE BUTTON

COVERED BUTTON/SHANK BUTTON

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

POPPER/PRESS STUD/SNAP

HOOK & LOOP (UNDONE)

HOOK & LOOP (DONE UP)

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

TIE (UNTIED)

TIE (TIED IN A BOW)

CHINESE KNOT

TOGGLE

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

FROGS/FROGGING

ROULEAU/BUTTON AND LOOP

MACHINED BUTTONHOLE

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE

BOUND BUTTONHOLE

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

VISIBLE ZIPPER/LAPPED ZIPPER

TWO-WAY ZIPPER

VELCRO

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

EYELETS/GROMMETS

LACING

STUD/SNAP

FASTENINGS/HARDWARE

RIVET

DRAWSTRING TOGGLE

D-RING

BUCKLE

GLOSSARY, INDEX, AND RESOURCES

GLOSSARY

A

A-line Garment that flares out from shoulder or waist to hem, like the letter "A."

Apparel Generic term for clothing.

Asymmetric Garments or details that are different on the right-hand side than the left.

C

CAD Computer-aided design.

Center-line Vertical line drawn down the middle of a sheet of paper as the starting point for a technical drawing template.

Collar Stand Band of material attached to the neckline of a garment to support the collar.

Coloring-up Rendering a drawing to show color, texture, or pattern.

Colorway One of a range of colors or color combinations used to create a garment.

Costing Sheet List of all the elements needed to make up a garment (fabric, trims, cost of manufacture), which is then used to calculate the gross margin and selling price of a style.

D

Dart Tapered tuck stitched into a garment in order to fit it to the body.

Double-breasted Garment style, usually a coat or jacket, with a wide overlap at the font, wrapping over the breast and fastening with buttons. Two rows of button are visible when closed.

F

Flats Technical drawings created to give an accurate representation of a garment. Also called "working drawings" or "line drawings."

Floats Technical drawings that have been embellished with color or pattern.

Frogging Braided or corded decorative fastening.

G

Godet Triangular shape inserted into a garment to add fullness.

Gusset Triangular or diamond-shaped piece of fabric inserted into a garment to reinforce or expand part of it. Generally used under the arm or at the crotch.

H

Hardware The—traditionally metal—closures, fixings, and decorative additions on a garment.

L

Lapel One of two triangular flaps below the collar, pressed back to the chest, on jackets, coats, and shirts.

Light Box Table-top box, usually made from acrylic, that is illuminated from the rear, assisting with tracing and design work.

Line Board Presentation of a collection of co-ordinating garment styles showing individual styles and colorways.

Line Sheet Sales document presenting information such as style, colors, fabrics, order quantities, delivery period, manufacturing and selling prices along with garment sketches to wholesale buyers.

Look Book Designers' or manufacturers' portfolio presenting a season’s line; can include flats, catwalk shots, and illustrations.

M

Mannequin Dummy of the human body used to display clothing.

Merchandising Plan Graphic representation of a store floor area in 2D or 3D used to plan the display of garments prior to the collection arriving in store.

Muslin Trial garment created during the early design stages so the garment can be seen three-dimensionally and fit and drape assessed. Usually made in plain cotton or a cloth that replicates the final intended fabric.

O

Outerwear Garments designed to be worn over the top of other items of clothing.

P

Placket Opening in a garment that allows the wearer to put it on. Usually positioned at the waist, collar, cuffs, and neck of a garment.

Plan View Head-on perspective view of a garment.

Plus Size Clothing made especially for larger figures that go beyond the traditional range of sizes.

Princess Line Garment style, usually on a woman’s coat, which provides a close fit at the shoulder, is fitted at the waist, and flares out towards the hem.

R

Rever Wide lapel that is turned back to show the reverse side.

Rivet Type of metal fastener used in garment construction.

S

Set-in Refers to part of a garment that has been inserted, eg a sleeve that has been sewn into an armhole rather than cut as part of the bodice.

Sketch Rough, spontaneous drawing of a garment idea that is not necessarily accurate or in proportion.

Slit An opening in a garment to allow for ventilation or ease of movement.

Specification Sheet (or "spec") Includes a flat (including front and back views and, if necessary, a side view and internal views), plus all detailed measurements required to produce the garment.

Speed Designing A shortcut to producing flats. Once a garment style has been drawn using the generic template, that style can then be used as a template for developing any number of variations. Facilitates the drawing of real working garments, rather than just sketching out rough ideas.

T

Technical Drawing The process of creating flats, also known as "working drawings" or "line drawings." Technical drawing produces an accurate representation of a garment.

Trend Books Industry publications that can contain mood photographs, fabric swatches, and flats, intended to provide a forecast of new ideas for future seasons.

W

Welt Border used to decorate or reinforce part of a garment, such as a pocket or seam.

Y

Yoke A fitted piece of fabric, usually across the shoulders (in shirts, coats, etc) or hips (in skirts and pants), to which the rest of the garment is attached.

USEFUL PROFESSIONAL ASSOCIATIONS

EUROPE

UK

British Apparel and Textile Confederation (BATC)

5 Portland Place, London W1N 3AA

Tel: +44 (0)20 7636 7788

Fax: +44 (0)20 7636 7515

Email: batc@dial.pipex.com

Website: www.apparel-textiles.co.uk

British Clothing Industry Association (BCIA)

5 Portland Place, London W1B 1PW

Tel: +44 (0)20 7636 7788 or +44 (0)20 7636 5577

Fax: +44 (0)20 7636 7515

Email: contact@5portlandplace.org.uk

Website: www.5portlandplace.org.uk

British Fashion Council (BFC)

5 Portland Place, London W1B 1PW

Tel: + 44 (0)20 7636 7788

Fax: +44 (0)20 7436 5924

Email: emmacampbell@britishfashioncouncil.com

www.britishfashioncouncil.com

EMTEX LTD (Designer Forum)

69–73 Lower Parliament Street, Nottingham NG1 3BB

Tel: +44 (0)115 9115339

Fax: +44 (0)115 911 5345

Email: info@design-online.net

Website: www.design-online.net

Fashion and Design Protection Association Ltd.

69 Lawrence Road, London N15 4EY

Tel: +44 (0)20 8800 5777

Fax: +44 (0)20 8880 2882

Email: info@fdpa.co.uk

Website: www.fdpa.co.uk

Northern Ireland Textile and Apparel Assoc. Ltd.

5c The Square, Hillsborough BT26 6AG

Tel: +44 (0)2892 68 9999

Fax: +44 (0)2892 68 9968

Email: info@nita.co.uk

Register of Apparel & Textile Designers

5 Portland Place, London W1N 3AA

Tel: +44 (0)20 7636 5577

Fax: +44 (0)20 7436 5924

Email: contact@5portlandplace.org.uk

Website: www.5portlandplace.org.uk

France

Chambres Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne

45 Rue Saint-Roch, 75001 Paris

Tel: + 33 (0)1 4261 0077

Fax: +33 (0)1 4286 8942

Email: ecole@modeaparis.com

Website: www.modeaparis.com

Fédération Francais du Prét-à-Porter Féminine

5 Rue Caumartin, 75009 Paris

Tel: +33 (0)1 4494 7030

Fax: +33 (0)1 4494 7004

Email: contact@pretparis.com

Website: www.pretaporter.com

Fédération Française des Industries du Vêtement Masculin

8 Rue Montesquieu, 75001 Paris

Tel. : +33 (0)1 44 55 66 50

Fax : +33 (0)1 44 55 66 65

Website: www.lamodefrancaise.org.fr

Germany

Confederation of the German Textile

and Fashion Industry

Frankfurter Strasse 10–14, D-65760 Eschborn

Tel: +49 6196 9660

Fax: +49 6196 42170

Email: info@textil-mode.de

Website: www.textil-mode.de

Italy

Associazione Italiana della Filiera Tessile Abbigliamento SMI

Federazione Tessile e Moda

Viale Sarca 223, 20126 Milano

Tel: +39 (0)2-641191

Fax: +39 (0)2-66103667 / 70

Website: www.smi-ati.it

Email: info@sistemamodaitalia.it

Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana

Via Faenzan, 111, 50123, Florence

Tel: +39 (0)553 6931

Fax: +39 (0)5536 93200

Email: cfmi@cfmi.it

Website: www.cfmi.it

Spain

Association of New and Young Spanish Designers

Segovia 22, Bajos CP 28005 Madrid

Tel: +34 915 475 857

Fax: +34 915 475 857

Email: nuevosdisenadores@telefonica.net

ASIA AND THE PACIFIC

Australia

Council of Textiles and Fashion Industries, Australia Ltd (TFIA)

Level 2, 20 Queens Road, Melbourne, VIC 3004

Tel: +61 (0) 38317 6666

Fax: +61 (0) 38317 6666

Email: info@tfia.com.au

Website: www.tfia.com.au

Design Institute of Australia

486 Albert Street, East Melbourne, VIC 3002, GPO Box 4352

Tel: +61 (0) 38662 5490

Fax: +61 (0) 38662 5358

Email: admin@design.org.au

Website: www.dia.org.au

Australian Fashion Council

Showroom 16, 23–25 Gipps Street, Collingwood VIC 3066

Tel: +61 (0) 38680 9400

Fax: +61 (0) 38680 9499

Email: info@australianfashioncouncil.com

Website: www.australianfashioncouncil.com

Melbourne Design and Fashion Incubator (MDFI)

Shop 238, Level 2, Central Shopping Centre, 211 La Trobe Street, Melbourne 3000, Victoria

Tel: +61 (0) 39671 4522

Email: info@fashionincubator.com.au

Website: www.fashionincubator.com.au

China

China National Textile and Apparel Council

China Textile Network Company, Rm 236, No 12, Dong Chang’an Street, Beijing 100742

Tel: +86 10 85229 100

Fax: +86 10 85229 100

Email: einfo@ml.ctei.gov.cn

Website: www.ctei.gov.cn

China Fashion Designers Association

Room 154, No 12, Dong Chang’an Street, Beijing, 100742

Tel: +86 1085 229427

Fax: +86 1085 229037

Japan

Japan Fashion Association

Fukushima Building, 1-5-3 Nihonbashi – Muromachi, Chuo – ku, Tokyo 103-0022

Tel: +81 33242 1677

Fax: +81 33242 1678

Email: info@japanfashion.or.jp

Website: japanfashion.or.jp

Japan Association of Specialist in Textile and Apparel

Jasta Office, 2-11-13-205, Shiba – koen, Minato – Ku, Tokyo 105-0011

Tel: +81 03 3437 6416

Fax: +81 03 3437 3194

Email: jasta@mtb.biglobe.ne.jp

Website: jasta1.or.jp/index_english.html

NORTH AMERICA

USA

American Apparel and Footwear Association

1601 N Kent Street, Suite 1200, Arlington VA 22209

Tel: +1 703 524 1864

Fax: +1 703 522 6741

Website: www.apparelandfootwear.org

Council of Fashion Designers of America

1412 Broadway Suite 2006, New York, NY 10018

Tel: +1 212 302 1821

Website: www.cfda.com

Fashion Group International New York

8 West 40th Street, 7th Floor, New York, NY 10018

Tel: +1 212 302 5511

Fax: +1 212 302 5533

Email: e-cheryl@fgi.org

Website: www.fgi.org

International Textile and Apparel Association

ITAA 6060 Sunrise Vista Drive, Suite 1300, Citrus Heights, CA 95610

Tel: +1 916 723 1628

Email: info@itaaonline.org

Website: www.itaaonline.org

Brazilian–American Fashion Association (BRAMFSA)

PO Box 83-2036, Delray Beach, Florida 33483

Email: bramfsa@bramfsa.com

Canada

Canadian Apparel Federation

124 O’Connor Street, Suite 504, Ottawa, Ontario K1P 5M9

Tel: +1 613 231 3220

Fax: +1 613 231 2305

Email: info@apparel.ca

Website: www.apparel.ca