Index and Resources – Flats: Technical Drawing for Fashion

INDEX

A

A-line garments

dress 689

skirt 801

ankle-length coat 59

ankle-length pants 58

anorak 139

appliqué 198

armhole 54, 55

asymmetric garments

dress 71

skirt 90

B

back facing 55

back neck 38

back views

drawing by hand 31

using Illustrator 34

back yoke 54

bar 53

bellbottoms 100101

belt loop 52, 53, 191

Bermuda shorts 58, 107

bib overall 110

biker jacket 138

binding 188

blazer 135

block color 467

blouse 123

bodysuit/body 127

boiler suit 110

bolero jacket 134

bomber jacket 137

boy shorts 58

bracelet-length sleeve 56

buckle 216

bust dart 54

bustier 124

buttonholes 53, 55

bound 213

keyhole 213

machined 212

buttons 53, 54, 55

button and loop 212

covered button 209

cuff button 55

four-hole button 209

two-hole button 209

C

cagoule 138

camisole 11213

cap sleeve 56

cape 149

Capri pants 58, 108

cardigan 123

catsuit 111

center back 52

center crease 53

center-back opening 52

center-back pleat 54

center-back seam 53, 55

cheongsam 73

Chinese knot 211

coat lengths 59

coats

cape 149

casual 1445

classic double-breasted 1423

classic single-breasted 1401

cocoon 147

cutaway 148

duffle 148

duster 149

mackintosh/mac 146

morning 148

pea 147

princess/princess-line 146

swagger 147

swing 147

tail 148

tent 147

toggle 148

trench 146

unstructured 1445

collars 39, 54, 55

band 164

Bertha 166

bow-tied 166

cascade 166

collar and band 160

collar and rever 162

convertible 161

Eton 165

grandad 164

jabot 166

mandarin 164

Nehru 164

notched 162

one-piece shirt 161

Peter Pan 165

Pierrot 167

pilgrim 167

polo 167

puritan 167

pussy bow 166

sailor 165

shawl 162

stand 54, 192

traditional 160

two-piece shirt 160

wing 164

color, texture, and patterns 469

combat pants 102

corset 124

costing sheets 15

crop top 122

crotch 40, 53

cuff buttons 55

cuffs 54

barrel cuff with placket 180

bound 182

drawstring 183

pants 53, 195

French 181

single 180

tab 190

D

D-ring 216

dart 52, 53, 55, 186

bust 54

delivery packs 13

design development sheets 12

details, drawing 403, 45

dinner jacket 135

drawing from a garment 245

dress and skirt lengths 57

dresses

A-line 689

apron 74

asymmetric 71

ball gown 75

blouson 71

chemise 667

cheongsam 73

Chinese 73

dropped waist/drop waist 71

empire line 70

fitted 645

gown 75

kaftan 75

kimono 74

pinafore 74

princess/princess line 70

sheath 645

shift 667

shirt dress/shirtwaist 73

smock 72

tank 667

trapeze 70

tube 645

wrapover/wrap 72

duffle coat 148

dungarees 110

E

elbow-length sleeve 56

epaulet 193

eyelets 215

F

fashion illustration 10

fastenings 20916

female figure 10

flares 40, 100101

flats 10

by hand 2631

using Illustrator 325

use of 1219

flight jacket 137

floor-length dress/skirt 57

floor-length pants 58

fly fronts 41, 53

frayed edge 189

frill 190

fringe 199

frogs/frogging 212

full-length coat 59

full-length sleeve 56

G

gathers 41, 157, 187

generic templates 203 & 224

back views 31

and outerwear 44

technical drawing by hand 2631

technical drawing using Illustrator 325

godet 192

grommets 215

gusset 187

H

hanger hoop 54

hardware 20916

heads, measuring in 10, 201

hems 36, 38, 40, 52, 53, 55

rolled 188

hidden details 402

high-waisted skirt 57

high-waisted pants 58

hints and tips 369

hipster skirt 57

hipster pants 58

hood 195

hook & loop 210

I

inseam 189

J

jackets

anorak 139

basic 55

biker 138

blazer 135

blouson 137

bodywarmer 139

bolero 134

bomber 137

cagoule 138

casual 1323

Chinese 135

classic double-breasted 1301

classic single-breasted 1289

dinner 135

flight 137

jean 137

motorcycle 138

Nehru 136

Norfolk 136

padded gilet 139

padded waistcoat 139

parka 139

quilted vest 139

safari 136

shrug 134

Spencer 134

tuxedo 135

unstructured 1322

western 137

windbreaker 138

jeans 102

jodhpurs 103

jumpsuit 110

K

kaftan 75

kilt 91

kimono 74

sleeve 177

knee-length coat 59

knee-length dress/skirt 57

L

lacing 215

legging 923

lengths

coat 59

dress and skirt 57

pant 58

sleeve 56

line boards 13

line drawings 10

line sheets 13

look books 14

loop 55

M

mackintosh/mac 146

maxi coat 59

maxi dress/skirt 57

merchandising plans 17

micro mini dress/skirt 57

midi coat 59

mini dress/skirt 57

miter 188

motorcycle jacket 138

N

neck, back 38

necklines

asymmetric 157

bateau 154

boat 154

cowl 159

crew 158

drawstring 158

funnel 159

gathered 157

jewel 150

keyhole 156

off-the-shoulder 157

one shoulder 157

plunge 156

polo 158

roll 159

round 150

scoop/scooped 153

slit 156

square 155

sweetheart 156

turtle 158

U-neck 152

V-neck 151

Nehru collar 164

Nehru jacket 136

Norfolk jacket 136

O

on-the-waist skirt 57

on-the-waist pants 58

outerwear 44

overall 110

P

pant

lengths 58

waistband 37

pants

all-in-one body suit 111

basic 53

bellbottom 100101

Bermuda shorts 58, 107

bib overall 110

bloomer 106

boiler suit 110

bootleg 102

boxer short 106

Capri 58, 108

cargo pant 102

catsuit 111

cigarette pant 945

clam digger 108

combat 102

coverall 110

culotte 105

dhoti 105

drainpipe 945

dungaree 110

flare 100101

goucho pant 107

hakama 105

harem 104

hotpant 106

jean/jeans 102

jodhpur 103

jogger 109

jumpsuit 110

knickerbocker/knicker 107

legging 923

micro short 106

overall 110

oxford bag 103

palazzo pant 103

pant skirt 105

pedal pushers 58, 108

playsuit 109

riding pant 103

romper suit 109

Sabrina pant 108

sailor 104

short shorts 106

skinny 945

stirrup pant 111

stovepipe 945

straight 967

sweat pant 109

tapered 989

track pant 109

unitard 111

zouave 104

parka 139

patch pocket 54, 184

pattern 48

pattern instructions 1819

pedal pushers 58, 108

piping 190

placket 191

concealed 191

pleats

accordion 200

box 200

front 53

inverted 201

kick 201

knife 200

plus-size template 23

pockets 52, 53, 55

bellows 185

besom 184

cargo 185

flap 184

flap hip 53

in-a-seam 185

jetted 184

patch 54, 184

piped 184

safari 185

welt 55, 184

polo shirt 127

pom pom 199

popper 210

presentation sheets 12

press stud 210

Q

quilting 197

R

rever 55

rib 193, 194

rivet 216

rolled hem 188

rouleau 212

ruching 196

ruffle 190

S

safari jacket 136

safari pocket 185

sarong 43, 89

scallop 197

seams

bound 204

channel 205

cover stitch 204

flat fell 203

French 203

lapped 205

running stitch 202

slot 205

top stitch 202

twin needle 203

sewing patterns 1819

shirring 197

shirts 1201

basic 54

polo 127

short shorts 58, 106

short sleeve 56

shoulder yoke 54

side seam 52, 55

side zips 41

skirt

basic 52

lengths 57

waistband 37

skirts

A-line 801

asymmetric 90

balloon 90

bubble 90

circular 823

dirndl 88

fitted 767

full circle 823

gathered 845

gored 88

handkerchief hem 89

hobble 91

irregular hem 89

kilt 91

pareo 89

peasant 89

peg/pegged 91

pencil 767

pleated 867

puffball 90

sarong 43, 89

sheath 767

skating 90

skort 91

straight 789

tiered 89

wrap/wrapover 88

sleeve

head 54

lengths 56

placket 54

sleeveless pattern 56

sleeveless top 122

sleeves 43, 54

bell 175

bishop 179

butterfly 175

cap 174

cape 175

dolman 178

dropped shoulder 169

dropped 169

fitted 172

flared 175

kimono 177

kite 178

lantern 176

leg-of-mutton 179

magyar 178

one-piece 170

pagoda 176

peasant 176

puff 174

raglan 177

set-in 168

shirt 173

two-piece 55, 171

slit 52, 55, 193

smocking 196

snap 210

specification sheets 14

speed designing 20, 24

drawing by hand 29

using Illustrator 35

Spencer jacket 134

split yoke (seam) 54

stitches

bar tack 208

blanket 207

blind 207

chain 208

cross 208

hem 207

overlocking 207

straight lockstitch 206

twin needle 206

zig zag 206

stud 215

styling details 403, 525

T

T-shirt/tee 11819

tab cuff 190

tail 54

tank top 11415

tassel 198

technical drawings 10

by hand 2631

using Illustrator 325

use of 1219

teenage template 23

texture 49

three-quarter-length sleeve 56

three-quarters coat 59

tie 211

toggle 211

drawstring 216

tops

ballet 126

blouse 123

blouson 125

bodysuit/body 127

bustier 124

camisole 11213

cardigan 123

corset 124

Cossack 125

crop 122

gypsy blouse 125

halter/halterneck 124

jogging 127

kurta/kurti 126

midriff 122

peasant blouse 125

polo shirt 127

shirt 1201

sleeveless 122

strapless 123

strappy vest 11213

sweat 127

sweatshirt 127

T-shirt/tee 11819

tank 11415

tube top 123

tunic 11617

vest 11415

vest/waistcoat 122

wrap 126

trench coat 146

trend prediction books 16

tube top 123

tuck 186

U

unitard 111

V

velcro 214

vest 11415, 122

quilted 139

strappy 11213

W

waistband 52, 53

welt pocket 55

WGSN (Worth Global Syle Network) 16

windbreaker 138

working drawings 10

Y

yoke 54, 187

Z

zipped fly 192

zippers 53

invisible 213

side 41

two-way 214

visible 214

FURTHER READING

Abling, Bina and Kathleen Maggio, Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing, Fairchild, 2008

Centner, Marianne, and Frances Vereker, Adobe Illustrator: A Fashion Designer’s Handbook, Blackwell, 2007

Aldrich, Winifred, Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear, Blackwell Publishing, 4th edition, 2009

Aldrich, Winifred, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear, Blackwell Publishing, 4th edition, 2008

Aldrich, Winifred, Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear, Blackwell Publishing, 5th edition, 2008

Armstrong, Helen Joseph, Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Pearson Education, 4th edition, 2005

Bray, Natalie, Dress Pattern Designing, Blackwell Publishing, 2003

Burke, Sandra, Fashion Artist: Drawing Techniques to Portfolio Presentation, Burke Publishing, 2nd edition, 2006

Burke, Sandra, Fashion Computing—Design Techniques and CAD, Burke Publishing, 2006

Campbell, Hilary, Designing Patterns—A Fresh Approach to Pattern Cutting, Nelson Thornes, 1980

Cooklin, Gerry, Garment Technology for Fashion Designers, Blackwell, 1997

Cooklin, Gerry, Pattern Cutting for Women’s Outerwear, OM Books, 2008

Fischer, Annette, Basics Fashion Design: Construction, AVA Publishing SA, 2009

Ireland, Patrick John, New Encyclopedia Of Fashion Details, B T Batsford Ltd, 2008

Knowles, Lori A, The Practical Guide To Patternmaking For Fashion Designers: Menswear, Fairchild, 2005

Knowles, Lori A, The Practical Guide To Patternmaking For Fashion Designers: Juniors, Misses, And Women, Fairchild, 2005

Lazear, Susan, Adobe Illustrator for Fashion Design, Prentice Hall, 2008

Lazear, Susan, Adobe Photoshop for Fashion Design, Prentice Hall, 2009

McKelvey, Kathryn, Fashion Source Book, Blackwell; 2nd Edition, 2006

Peacock, John, The Complete Fashion Sourcebook: 2,000 Illustrations Charting 20th-Century Fashion, Thames & Hudson, 2005

Riegelman, Nancy, 9 Heads: A Guide to Drawing Fashion, Prentice Hall, 3rd edition, 2006

Rosen, Sylvia, Patternmaking: A Comprehensive Reference for Fashion Design, Prentice Hall, 2004

Seivewright, Simon, Basics Fashion Design: Research and Design, AVA Publishing SA, 2007

Stipelman, Steven, Illustrating Fashion: Concept To Creation, Fairchild, 2nd edition, 2005

Tallon, Kevin, Creative Computer Fashion Design with Illustrator, 2006

Travers-Spencer, Simon, and Zarida Zaman, The Fashion Designer’s Directory of Shape and Style, Barron’s Educational Series, 2008

Ward, Janet, Pattern Cutting and Making Up: The Professional Approach, 2nd edition, Butterworth-Heinemann, 1987

PHOTO CREDITS

The authors and publisher would like to thank the following institutions and individuals who provided images for use in this book. In all cases, every effort has been made to credit the copyright holders, but should there be any omissions or errors the publisher would be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgment in any subsequent edition of this book.

p11 Ayako Koyama

p12 Wayne Fitzel

p13 (top) Wayne Fitzell; (bottom) Debenhams

p14 Look Book images, Patrick Lee Yow

p15 Toby Meadows

p16 Worth Global Style Network

p17 (top) Senso Group; (bottom) Ayako Koyama

p18 & 19 Vogue Patterns, courtesy of McCall, Butterick & Vogue

p20-23 Ayako Koyama

p26-31 Photography by PSC Photography Ltd.

p32-35 Tutorials by Ayako Koyama

p36-39 Ayako Koyama

p50 (left) Vanda Rulewska; (right) Patrick Lee Yow

p51 (top) Mary Ruppert; (middle) Lynn Blake; (bottom) Maritza Cantero-Farrell

All technical drawings in section two by Ayako Koyama; all muslin photography by Packshot.com

AUTHOR'S ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I would like to especially thank Ayako Koyama for creating all of the technical drawings for the directory, and Anne Stafford and Ayako for creating all the beautiful muslin. Thanks to you both for your focus, dedication and patience with me! An important thank you to Eleanor Warrington for introducing me to the world of "flats" and commercial design so many years ago, in my first ever internship while still at college: that's when fashion design was demystified for me, when I came to understand commercial design, and when it all started...

Basia would also like to thank the following individuals and organizations:

Jo Lightfoot

Anne Townley

Gaynor Sermon

Melanie Mues

Patrick Lee Yow

Wayne Fitzell

Vanda Rulewska

Sarah Bailey

Melanie Cunningham

Toby Meadows

Sean Chiles

Kathryn Kujawa

Bridget Miles

Mary Ruppert-Stroescu

Lynn Blake

Maritza Cantero-Farrell

Keith Jones at McCall, Butterick & Vogue Patterns (www.butterick-vogue.co.uk)

WGSN (Worth Global Style Network)

Kane Thompson and Ann-Louise Tingelof at Senso Group, (www.Sensogroup.co.uk)