Index – Fashion & Sustainability

Index

Figures in italics refer to captions and diagrams

A

acrylic 14, 17, 26

activism see craftivism; designer as activist Adams, Bob 174

adaptability 7684

Adbusters 138

Aid to Artisans 170

Alabama Chanin 107, 175, 175

The Alabama Stitch Book, Alabama Studio Design and Alabama Studio Style (Chanin) 175

Alite 140

All Party Parliamentary Group of Ethical Fashion 1723

alpaca 107

alteration see repair services

Andrews, Cheryl 109, 109

Antiform Industries 146, 147

Apexa® (DuPont) 18

Ardalanish 41

Aristotle 11

artisans 11012, 1701, 175; see also local production

As You Sow 121, 170

Avelle 87, 103, 103

B

bacteria 93

Bag, Borrow or Steal see Avelle

bamboo 14, 16

Barneys New York 159, 175

bast fibres 107

Bedlam Boudoir 176, 178

Benyus, Janine 114, 115, 118

Berry, Wendell 49, 106, 114, 124, 136

bespoke designs 103, 105

Betabrand 129, 140, 140, 179

bicycle clothing 139140, 140

Bike Kitchen 100

biodegradable fibres 13, 1720

biofuel see renewable fuels

biomimicry 77, 11423

Biomimicry Institute 114

biopolymers 18

biotechnology 234

Bird Textiles 26, 28

Black Spot sneakers 151

bleaching 16, 347

Bluesign 36, 367

bounded capabilities 174

Bourlanges, Marie Ilse 130, 130

Boycott Uzbek Cotton campaign 170

boycotts 169

Brand, Stewart 114

Bridging Cultures Through Design (BCTD) 1701, 171

Brower, David 33

Brown, Nick 116

Bt cotton 23, 24

Burgess, Rebecca 171

Busch, Otto von 145, 151, 152, 164

buttons 17, 523, 53

C

C & A 22

CAD 126

pattern cutting 44, 48

Callenbach, Ernest 30, 143

Cambia T-shirt (Páramo) 79

Cara, Roberto 159

carbon dioxide/carbon footprinting 256, 28, 38, 54, 558, 58, 61, 92

Carbon Trust 26

care labels 601, 61; see also garment care cash crops 21

cashmere 86

‘Cathedral and Bazaar’ 145

cationizing agents 3940

Chanin, Nathalie 141, 143, 175, 176

Chapman, Jonathan 76, 85, 180

charity shops see thrift stores

child labour 21, 50

children’s toys 82

chlorine 35, 37

Clean Clothes Campaign 50

Cleaner Cotton™ 25, 25

cleaning see laundering

climate change 12, 13, 256, 38, 100, 126, 138

Clothes Exchange 64

clothes hire see leasing

clothes swaps 163, 1634

Clothing Exchange 163, 163

CMT (cut, make and trim) 49

co-design 1446, 1502, 1623

Cohen-Fried, Elisheva 134, 135, 150, 150

co-operatives 51, 105, 106, 110, 122

Cojolya Association of Women Weavers 11112, 112, 171

collaborations and partnerships 22, 501, 64, 107, 118, 119, 122, 169; see also NGOs

colour 40, 7980

and laundering 60

natural 401

theory 36

see also dyes and dyeing

commuter cycling 139140, 140

composting 17, 18, 20, 90

connectedness 1434, 150

Conrad, Joseph 141

consumer care 602

copper 38, 523

corn 14, 18, 58, 160; see also PLA

Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) 51, 157, 168

cotton 13, 14, 215, 60, 96, 98, 99, 160

Bt cotton 23, 24

calculator 159

cationic (Tuscarora Yarns) 39, 40

chemicals and pesticides 13, 213

Cleaner Cotton™ 25, 25

cotton picking and labour issues 212

farming 107, 134

GM 1314, 23, 24, 25, 134

Home Grown Cleaner Cotton™ T-shirt (Prana) 25, 25

irrigation 289

organic 234, 24, 25, 112, 133, 170, 174

spinning 107

sustainable cotton options 24

Sustainable Cotton Project 1589, 160

Trigema biodegradable T-shirt 18, 20

Cotton Connect 22

Cotton Roots 26

Cradle to Cradle (McDonough and Braungart) 17; certification and concept 18, 20, 87

Craft Lab 150

crafting 14650

craftivism 14950

The Craftsman (Sennett) 147

‘Craftwerk 2.0: New household tactics for popular crafts’ 150

crease-resistant fibres 98

crowdsourcing 129, 179

cultural knowledge 1089

customization 152

cutting waste see minimum-waste garments

D

Dale Sko shoe factory, Norway 152, 152

Daly, Herman 75, 125, 125, 136

De Beauvoir coat (Eloise Grey) 42

Decay (Bourlanges) 130

defibrillation 35

degradable fibres 18

Del Forte Denim 170

Del Forte, Tierra 170

denim 86, 96

DePLOY 81, 81

Design Activism (Fuad-Luke) 145, 146

design services 103, 105; see also co-design designer

as activist 16873

as communicator-educator 1579

as entrepreneur 1749

as facilitator 1627; see also co-design

detergent see laundering

Devenney, Lauren 96, 98

disposal 6373; see also recycling; waste

distribution 548, 64, 66, 106, 107

Dosa 856, 1756, 176

downcycling 63; see also recycling

Duerr, Sasha 43, 44, 158, 160

DuPont 16, 18

durability 858

dyes and dyeing 3740

cationizing agents 3940

fixation rates 38

natural 43, 43, 44, 86, 108, 108, 158, 171, 172, 176, 178

and water 379

workshops 158, 160

E

Earley, Becky 96, 134

Eco Circle technology (Tejin) 71

ecosystems 312, 76, 77

business 118, 125, 125

Edible Schoolyard 176

Ehrenfeld, John 75

electroplating 523

emotional attachment to garments 65, 857, 141

empathy 856

Endurance Shirt (Timo Rissanen) 46

energy consumption

in fibre production 256, 26, 28

in garment care 57, 602, 93

Energy Water Fashion 96, 96

environmental campaigns 138, 139

enzyme technology 356, 37

Etsy, Dan 155

eucalyptus 16

EW8 96

F

fabric coatings 93

facings 17

Fairtrade/fair trade 13, 14, 21, 51, 70, 107, 133

Fair Trade Labelling Initiative 51

Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International 51

Fair Trade USA 51, 170

Farming With the Wild (Dan Imhoff) 30

farming, organic see organic agriculture

Farrell, Robert 143

fashion as self expression 1389

fast fashion 1267, 129

fertilizers 20, 29, 58, 126

Fibershed Project 171, 172

fibre production

low-energy/low-carbon 256, 28

low-water-use 2830

fibres

animal- and plant-based 14, 17

biodegradable 13, 1720

degradable 18

fibre blends 17, 99

GM 225

non-biodegradable 17

non-degradable 18

non-renewable 14

petrochemical 12, 14, 18

renewable fibres 14, 16; ‘family tree’ 15

synthetic fibres 13, 16, 17, 18, 26, 29, 701, 73, 98

water use 29

see also organic agriculture; recycling

Filippa K 64, 66, 66

finishing treatments 93

5 Ways project 96, 96, 134

Flener, Manon 82, 82

Fletcher, Kate 88, 96, 134

flocculation 39

Forno, Sam 44, 48

From Somewhere 69

Fuad-Luke, Alastair 135, 145, 146

Fuller, Richard Buckminster 155

G

Galloway, Anne 152

garment care 602, 929

garments, emotional attachment to 65, 857, 141; see also fashion as self expression

Global Organic Textile Standard 36, 53

globalization 49, 106, 108, 144, 152

GM (genetic modification) 13, 16, 225, 36, 134

cotton 1314, 23, 24, 25, 134

Goodone 6970, 71

Goodwill 66, 67, 69, 69, 122, 123

government policies, influencing 1723

Great American Apparel Diet 137

Grey, Eloise 41, 42

Grose, Lynda 141, 143, 159

H

H & M (Hennes and Mauritz) 50; Garden Collection 16, 16

hacking 1502

Hahn, Nicole Mackinlay 159, 160

Hamnett, Katherine 22

hardware and trims 523, 53

Hawken, Paul 121

Heath Pottery 176

Helvey, Ashley 160

hemp 14, 29, 1078, 108

Herman Miller 176

high-tech/smart fabrics 778, 78, 79, 11617

Historic Futures 55

Home Grown T-shirt (Prana) 25, 25

Home Made (SANS) 105

home-made clothes/home sewing 145, 164, 167, 167, 175; see also workshops

Hopkins, Rob 172, 180

House of Cashmere 70

Hyde, Lewis 141

hydrogen peroxide 35, 36, 37

I

IDEO 169, 174

Illuminite Teflon 140

Imhoff, Dan 159

Ingeo™ (NatureWorks) 18

International Labor Organization 50

Internet 105, 129, 144, 158, 179

inventory flows 54

IPM (integrated pest management) 22, 24, 160

ironing 98; see also garment care

J

Jackson, Tim 174

jeans 6, 53, 61, 61, 96, 140, 170

Jongstra, Claudy 176, 176

Junky Styling 69, 105, 105

Jurewitz, Patti 170

just-in-time manufacturing 126

K

Keep and Share 102, 129, 130

Kernel Gallery, Athens 165

Khamir 112

Kim, Christina 856, 1756

Kirschenmann, Fred 30

Koch snowflake 114, 115

Konaka 94, 95

Korten, David 123, 180

L

labels and labelling 20, 86, 96, 164

labour 202, 106, 124, 126

child labour 21, 50

cotton picking 21, 22

in cut and sew 4951

NGOs 501

see also artisans

landfill 18, 52, 63, 67, 85, 123

laundering 602, 929, 165

leasing 90, 1023

Leonard, Annie 138

Levi Strauss and Co 53, 53, 61, 61, 109, 109

Levinson, Melissa 94

Levy, Steven 1512

life-cycle assessment (LCA) 556, 134

lifespan of a garment 85

Lifetimes project (Fletcher and Tham) 88, 90, 91

linen 16, 29, 41, 96, 98

Linux software 144

Little Brown Dress project (Martin) 137, 1378

llamas 31, 32

local culture 1089

local production 41, 10612, 146, 171, 175; see also artisans; slow fashion

Local Wisdom 1645, 167, 167

London College of Fashion 96

Lovins, Amory 121

Lovins, Hunter 121

Low to No Waste jacket (Sam Forno) 44, 48

Luckins, Kate 163

lyocell 14, 15, 16, 16, 26

M

Maca 1078, 108

Macy, Joanna 174

Maggie’s Organics 107

Marchand and Walker 139

Marks and Spencer 57, 61, 64

Martin, Alex 137

MATERIALBYPRODUCT 49

Mau, Bruce 57

Max-Neef, Manfred 110, 132, 1325

MBDC 20; see also Cradle to Cradle

McDonalds 128

Meadows, Donella 11415, 157

Melville, Emily 80, 80

methane 18

Michel, Karina 73, 73

minimum-waste garments 44, 45, 46, 47, 489, 119, 119

mining industry 52, 54

‘Mirror/Africa’ video installation (Hahn) 159, 160

Miyake, Issey 99

modular garments 801, 81, 82, 82, 83, 145

Moholy-Nagy, László 162

Mudd Jeans 170

Muji 99, 99

multifunctional garments 789, 146

N

Naess, Arne 174

nanofiltration 39

natural dyes 43, 43, 44, 86, 108, 108, 158, 171, 172, 176, 178

Nau 58, 58

needs 13241

new media see Internet

NGOs 501, 93, 112, 121, 158, 16973; see also partnerships and collaborations

Nikwax 116, 117

No Stain dress (Devenney) 96, 98

No Wash top (Earley and Fletcher) 96, 96

non-biodegradable fibres 17

non-degradable fibres 18

non-renewable fibres 14

North Face, The 36, 37

nylon 14, 16, 26, 30

recycling 71, 73

O

oil industry 52

One Night Stands (Sandstrom) 127, 127

online businesses see Internet optimized lifetimes 857

organic agriculture 13, 14, 22, 235, 30, 133, 174

Organic Exchange 174

over-printing 69, 86

Oxfam 50, 51, 64, 66

ozone

bleaching 35, 36, 37

laundering with 62, 62

P

Páramo 79, 116, 117; see also smart/high-tech fabrics

partnerships and collaborations 22, 501, 64, 107, 118, 119, 122, 169; see also NGOs

passive consumption 1434, 150

Patagonia 29, 2930, 56, 87, 122

pattern and making instructions see Chanin, Nathalie; Busch, Otto von

pattern cutting and wastage see minimum-waste garments

patterns, downloadable 104, 105, 179

peak oil 26

peak water 29

Pearse, John 94

Permacouture Institute 158, 160

pest control 223, 25

IPM (integrated pest management) 22, 24, 160

see also organic agriculture; pesticides

pesticides 13, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 28, 29, 58

PET (ployethylene terephthalate) 18, 70

Petrini, Carlo 128

PLA (polylactic acid) fibres 14, 18

plants and dyeing see natural dyes

Pleats Please concept (Issey Miyake) 99

polyester 14, 16, 1718, 26, 29, 30, 38, 60, 99

recycling 701, 73

Pratibha Syntex 73, 119, 119, 120

predator-friendly fibres 302, 107

Primark 128

processing

designers’ involvement in 334, 36

standards and accreditation 367

Project Laundry List 62

PTT (triexta) 15, 16, 26, 29

Q

Quick Response (QR) codes 87

R

Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) tags 54, 61, 87

Rawles, Kate 75

Raymond, Eric S. 145

reconditioning see recycling: garments

recycling 17, 52, 56, 64, 138

fibre 13, 16, 17, 26, 39, 48, 52, 63, 64, 701, 73, 87, 107, 119, 120, 133, 140

garments 63, 64, 67, 6970, 122, 164, 176

shoes 127, 127

water 39

REI 78, 78

‘recyclopedia’ (von Busch) 164, 165

renewable fibres 14, 16; ‘family tree’ 15

renewable fuels 58

renting see leasing

repair services 1001, 101

reuse 634, 64, 667; see also recycling

reverse osmosis 39

RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) tags 54, 61, 87, 159

Rissanen, Timo 44, 46, 489

Robinson, Mimi 1701

Rockefeller Foundation 169

Rosenfeld, Galya 84, 84

S

Salvation Army 66

Sandstrom, Stephanie 127

SANS 104, 105, 179

Scotchgard™ 93

seasons 79

seed cotton 14, 21

Self-Couture (Steverlynck) 146, 148

self-storage 86

Sennett, Richard 147, 149

Shah, Nimish 112, 112

shape-changing garments 824, 84

sharing garments 65, 102, 165

sheep 30, 31, 31, 32, 41, 160, 176, 176

‘Sheep and Weeds’ 160

Shell Foundation 22

shoes 87, 127, 127, 151, 152, 153

Shove, Elizabeth 145

Shower Clean Suit (Konaka) 94, 95

silk 14, 98

‘SIN’ (Substitute It Now) list 93

slow fashion 43, 127, 12830; see also artisans; crafting; local production

Slow Food movement 128

smart/high-tech fabrics 778, 78, 79, 11617, 117

snaps 52, 82

Social Fabric Collaborative 100

Sorona® (DuPont) 16

Speth, James Gustave 168

stains 96

stain-repellant coatings 93

steady-state economics 125, 125

Stegner, Wallace 110

Steverlynck, Diane 146, 148

Story of Stuff (Leonard) 138

String technology 55

Sugar and Spice shoe (Patagonia) 87

supply chain 11, 21, 36, 54, 556, 106, 107, 111, 126, 141, 144, 159, 170

Sustainabilica 12

‘Sustainable Clothing Roadmap’ 92

Sustainable Cotton Project 1589, 160

Swaine, Michael 101, 102

Swap-O-Rama-Rama 1634

synthetic fibres 13, 16, 17, 18, 26, 29, 701, 73, 98

systemic innovation 174

T

take-back schemes 64, 66

Teflon® 93

Tejin 71

Tencel® 16, 30

Tesco 70

Textile Exchange 22

Tham, Mathilda 88

Thirteen Mile Farm, Montana 31, 32

Thorpe, Ann 154

thrift stores 667, 69, 122; see also recycling; vintage clothing

Tibbs, Hardin 54

Tide 61

Timberland 567

Titus, Crystal 82, 82

ToTEM (Tales of Things and Electronic Memory) project 87

Touch Me dress (5 Ways Project) 134

transfunctional garments 778

Transition Towns movement 172

transportation 54, 578

trans-seasonal garments 7980

Tremayne, Wendy 163

triexta (PTT) 15, 16, 26, 29

Trigema biodegradable T-shirt 18, 20

trims and hardware 523, 53

Tuscarora Yarns 39, 40

tweed 41

Twiggy 164

Tyler, Mike 32

U

UNEP 28

UNESCO 28, 29

United Nations Environment Programme 60

upcycling 69; see also recycling

V

vintage clothing 65, 66, 69, 90, 102, 103, 141, 143; see also recycling

viscose 14, 16, 26, 29

W

Waag, Jerome 160

Walmart 55, 61, 122

wardrobe metabolism 88, 88

washing clothes see laundering

waste 12, 13, 14, 18, 34, 634, 92 see also disposal; landfill; recycling; reuse

water 12, 13, 23, 2830, 34, 35, 378, 39, 52, 92

use in fibres 29

Waters, Alice 176

weaving 41, 11112, 171

web sites see Internet

Weed, Becky 32

Whole Earth Catalog (Brand) 114

Wikipedia 144

women 1367, 149, 171, 175

wool 14, 17, 29, 41, 42, 94, 107, 176, 176

and predators 301, 31, 32

see also tweed

workers see labour

workshops 100, 110, 152, 158, 163, 164, 165, 175

World Economic Forum 28

World Health Organization 22

WORN_RELICS© project 87

wrinkled garments 99, 99; see also ironing

WWF, Scotland 138

Y

Yamamoto, Kansai 94

Z

zips 17, 20, 52, 85

ZoZa 86